A Stellar Bordeaux First and Second Growth Tasting

As an avid wine enthusiast, I had the privilege of attending the Bordeaux First and Second Growth Tasting at Berry Bros & Rudd in London, February 2023. Guided by the expert tutelage of Mark Pardoe MW, the Wine Director, the event was nothing short of spectacular.

We started the evening on a bubbly note with the Champagne Valentin Leflaive, Le Mesnil Sur Oger ’16, Grand Cru ($96). This champagne was a beautifully balanced symphony of fine bubbles, exuding notes of ripe pears, brioche, and delicate minerality – a fitting beginning to our journey (rating: 4.2/5.0).

The 2012 Ch. Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan ($621) followed, revealing a nuanced complexity of earthy minerality, a medley of ripe red and black fruits, and a touch of cedarwood – an overall opulent and well-integrated wine (rating: 4.7/5.0).

The 2017 Château Rauzan-Ségla, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux ($93) exhibited a bouquet of ripe cherries, violets, and cassis. On the palate, it presented a harmonious interplay of firm tannins, fresh acidity, and profound depth of flavors (rating: 4.4/5.0).

The 2014 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ème Cru Classé, Pauillac ($342) exuded an intense aroma of blackcurrants and graphite, with a trace of sweet spices. It was harmonious and balanced, with an enduring finish (rating: 4.5/5.0).

Next, the 2012 Ch. Léoville Las Cases, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien ($252) captured the elegance of St Julien with its vibrant red fruit character, pronounced tannins, and captivating minerality (rating: 4.6/5.0).

The tasting continued with the 2005 Ch. Gruaud Larose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien ($165), showing a complex mix of dark fruit, tobacco, and truffle notes, albeit slightly restrained (rating: 4.2/5.0), followed by the 1995 Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien, a mature wine offering nuanced notes of dried cherries, leather, and earthy tobacco (rating: 4.3/5.0).

The first perfect score of the night was the 2012 Ch. Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux ($690). This ethereal wine unfolded with layers of ripe blackberries, floral violets, and subtle spices, showcasing supreme balance and grace (rating: 5.0/5.0).

The 2009 Ch. Latour, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac ($1827), commanded attention with its powerful structure, deep layers of blackcurrant, graphite, and forest floor notes (rating: 4.7/5.0).

The second star of the evening was the 2005 Ch. Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac ($931). The wine was simply outstanding, exploding with a vibrant array of black fruits, exotic spices, cigar box, and an impressively long and velvety finish (rating: 5.0/5.0).

The final wine of the evening was the 2005 Ch. Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac ($1327). This wine was the epitome of elegance and finesse, with delicate layers of black fruits, cedar, and graphite. Its harmony and subtlety were a joy to behold (rating: 4.9/5.0).

In conclusion, this tasting was an enriching exploration of Bordeaux’s top wines, offering an in-depth appreciation of their intrinsic quality and expressiveness. The standout wines, Ch. Margaux and Ch. Mouton Rothschild, were nothing short of awe-inspiring, encapsulating the essence of Bordeaux’s wine excellence. For me, it showed that the First Growths still have the edge over the Second Growths, but some of them are amazing quality.